thedrifter
12-23-06, 07:37 AM
Cooking for Christmas: Three easy ideas for holiday brunch
By: T. SUSAN CHANG - For The Associated Press
Tradition is what you make of it. Some people celebrate Christmas with roast goose and red cabbage. Others stand by their ham. Some even go so far as to roast a turkey, as if they hadn't had enough just four weeks earlier.
But for those who don't mind their traditions a bit more relaxed, there's the Christmas brunch -- a sociable start to the ritual of giving and receiving, and one which leaves you with more time to share the tidings of the season with loved ones.
The secret to a really good brunch is to recognize that there are two competing visions: the sweet and the savory.
Sweet brunch fare typically includes fruit salads, pastries, waffles, pancakes, preserves and syrup; maybe a mimosa. Savory versions (perhaps favored by those who indulged more than intended the previous evening) include every incarnation of the egg, soups, smoked meats and fish, cheeses and crackers. And an optional Bloody Mary.
Coffee, of course, helps wash down either approach.
I've found it best to offer a mix of savory and sweet. If that sounds like too much trouble, remember: Those who don't want to cook, shop. When you go to the market for your last grocery run before Christmas, pick up a packet of smoked salmon, some extra crackers and a sack of oranges. Fortune favors those prepared.
Making sure that at least one of your dishes is finger food keeps things friendly. That way those who prefer to linger by the table -- say, while the ribbon and wrapping paper are flying -- can happily nibble and sip.
It's worth remembering that brunch also is a state of mind: a time to graze and chat, to do things at a leisurely pace and enjoy the sense that there's nowhere else you have to be.
In that spirit, you might as well take it easy when planning brunch at home. But that doesn't mean you can't eat well.
Any one of several strategies will work. Make most of the meal ahead of time and let the oven do all the work. Or choose a few simple recipes easily assembled that morning. And tossing together a no-cook brunch is always an appealing option.
What Christmas brunch should not be is a harried dash to the stove, juggling eggs like a short-order cook, or a tedious vigil over the toaster while browning two mind-numbing slices at a time.
It should not involve frenzied speculation as to where each of seven pieces of silverware should go in a place setting. Nor should it entail folding starched napkins into orchid and daffodil shapes.
And whoever ends up having to hand-wash the good china, if you are so foolish as to use it, is likely to dispel the Christmas spirit faster than you can say "Peace on Earth."
Keep it casual, keep it friendly, have something for everybody and buy what you don't want to cook. And afterward, once you've nabbed the last piece of lox and tried on your new shearling-lined slippers, you can let somebody else cook Christmas dinner.
Recipes for three Christmas brunches
MAKE-AHEAD CHRISTMAS BRUNCH
If you have the time to do some preparation on Christmas Eve, a make-ahead brunch is an easy and impressive way to feed a crowd. Everything just comes down to reheating or preheating (the oven). A last-minute green salad would round out this meal.
The rolls can be prepared a day or two ahead and kept, covered, in the back of the refrigerator until you're ready to bake. The soup can be prepared entirely the day before and reheated Christmas morning; the flavors will only deepen.
CRANBERRY NUT BREAKFAST ROLLS
1/2 cup orange juice, strained
1/3 cup sweetened dried cranberries
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted and cooled, plus 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick), softened
1 cup buttermilk
2 large eggs
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
3 cups bread flour
1/3 cup coarsely chopped roasted pecans or walnuts
Vegetable oil or nonstick vegetable oil spray
Zest of 1 orange, removed in strips and finely diced
1/2 cup heavy cream (optional)
For the icing:
2 cups powdered sugar
1/4 teaspoon pure orange extract
For the rolls, in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, bring 1/4 cup orange juice to a boil. Place the cranberries in a bowl. Once the orange juice has boiled, pour it over the cranberries and let stand 10 minutes. Strain the berries, reserving the liquid. Set both aside.
In the microwave or on the stove, combine the melted butter and buttermilk and gently heat until warm (no more than 115 degrees). Transfer to a large mixing bowl. Add the eggs, 1/4 cup sugar, salt and yeast. Mix well.
Add the flour and knead until the dough is cohesive. Knead the strained cranberries and nuts into the dough. Continue to knead until the dough is smooth and elastic.
Use the vegetable oil or cooking spray to lightly coat another large mixing bowl. Shape the dough into a ball and place in the bowl, turning to coat with the oil. Cover with a damp cloth and let rise until doubled, about 1 hour.
Meanwhile, oil or spray two 9-inch cake pans and set aside.
Once the dough has risen, divide it in half. Roll one half into a 12-by-8-inch rectangle. Spread 3 tablespoons of the softened butter over the dough. Sprinkle with half of the orange zest and 1/4 cup of the sugar. Roll up the dough from the long side. Dampen the edge of the dough with water and press to seal the seam. Cut into 12 even slices.
Place the rolls, cut-side down, into one of the prepared cake pans. The edges of the rounds should touch. Repeat this process with the remaining dough. Cover the pans with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. The rolls can be refrigerated up to four days.
When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator and place in a warm place to rise until the rolls have doubled, about 30 minutes. For a creamier roll, drizzle 1/4 cup heavy cream over each pan of rolls. Bake for 20 minutes, or until golden brown.
While the rolls are baking, prepare the icing. In a small bowl, combine the powdered sugar, orange extract and orange juice. Whisk until smooth. To ice the rolls, place the rolls on a cooling rack over a tray or foil to catch any drips. Use a brush or spoon to spread a thin coat of icing over the tops of the rolls. Transfer the rolls to a plate and serve warm. Makes 24 rolls.
-- From Carol Gordon's "Sleep on It," Hyperion, 2006, $13.95)
BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND ROASTED APPLE SOUP
1 large (4 to 5 pounds) butternut squash
3 tart apples (such as Granny Smith), peeled, cored and quartered
1/2 pound shallots
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
1 3/4 cups apple cider
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup heavy cream
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil.
Cut the squash in half down its length and scoop out and discard the seeds. Place the halves cut side down on the baking sheet and roast until very tender, about 1 1/2 hours. When done, the neck of the squash will feel soft to the touch, the skin will be wrinkled and browned in spots, and the juices will have caramelized on the pan. Leave the squash on the pan until it is cool enough to handle.
Meanwhile, combine the apples and shallots in a roasting pan. Season with salt and pepper and the thyme. Pour in 3/4 cup cider, then dot with the butter. Cover the pan with foil and roast for 1 hour.
Remove the foil from the pan and roast the apples and shallots another 30 to 45 minutes. When done, the shallots should be very tender and most of the juices should be absorbed. Let cool for several minutes.
Use a food processor to puree the shallot and apple mixture, in batches, until smooth. Transfer to a large stockpot.
Cut the peel off the squash and puree the flesh, in batches if necessary, in the food processor. Add the pureed squash to the stockpot.
Whisk the stock, the remaining cup of cider, the coriander and nutmeg into the vegetable puree. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Add the cream, then return to a simmer. Cook for 1 minute. If desired, serve garnished with croutons. Makes 6 servings.
-- From Roy Finamore's "Tasty," Houghton Mifflin, 2006, $30
WILD MUSHROOM AND GRUYERE TART
For the crust: - 1 1/3 cups flour
1 stick unsalted butter, cold and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup ice-cold water
For the tart filling:
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 shallots, thinly sliced
12 ounces mixed mushrooms (shiitakes and creminis work well), sliced 1/4-inch thick (about 3 to 4 cups)
Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh thyme, chopped
1/2 cup white wine
2/3 cup coarsely grated Gruyere cheese
3 egg yolks
1 cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
To make the crust, in a food processor combine the flour, butter and salt and pulse briefly, or until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. The largest chunks in the mixture should be the size of small peas.
With the food processor pulsing, drizzle in the water. Stop adding water as soon as the dough comes together. Remove the dough and carefully form into a disk. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate while preparing the mushrooms, about 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the shallots and saute until just translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the mushrooms and thyme and saute until the mushrooms are wilted and have lost their moisture, 15 to 20 minutes.
When the mushrooms are nearly dry, deglaze the pan by adding the wine and scraping the skillet with a wooden spoon.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator and quickly roll out. Set the dough into a 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom, carefully pressing it into the edge and up the sides.
Line the dough with foil or waxed paper. Fill the tart shell with dried beans or pie weights, then bake for 10 minutes. Remove the weights and foil and bake another 5 minutes, or until pale gold.
Scatter half of the cheese over the bottom of the tart shell. Spoon the mushroom mixture evenly over the cheese. At this stage, the tart can be refrigerated overnight.
When ready to bake, preheat oven to 375 degrees.
In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and cream, then drizzle over the mushroom mixture. Scatter the remaining cheese over that. Bake for 35 minutes, or until just puffed and golden brown. Serve hot. Makes one 9-inch tart.
QUICK AND EASY CHRISTMAS BRUNCH
Many perfectly satisfying brunches are just variations on eggs and toast. This dressed-up version would be even better with country ham to serve with the biscuits. Warm up a big bowl of apple sauce spiced with cinnamon sticks and cloves to provide a sweet side.
This full-flavored frittata has only one tricky spot -- flipping it to cook the other side. A lightweight nonstick pan makes a big difference. This recipe also is easily doubled (be sure to use a larger skillet).
If you happen to have access to good-quality lard, it gives these biscuits incomparable texture and flavor. They also are good made with butter or shortening.
ZUCCHINI AND MINT FRITTATA
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 yellow onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled
1 large zucchini, thinly sliced
Coarse salt
4 eggs
Peperoncino or freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint
1 tablespoon caciocavallo or pecorino cheese, grated
Heat the oil in an 8-inch skillet, nonstick skillet over a medium heat. Saute the onion and garlic clove (whole) until the onion softens, but does not brown, about 10 minutes. The garlic adds a subtle flavor.
Add the zucchini and sprinkle light with salt. Saute 10 minutes, or until the zucchini slices have softened but still retain their shape. The seeds should appear swollen and almost translucent.
In a small bowl, beat the eggs, then whisk in a bit of salt, the peperoncino or black pepper, mint and cheese.
Reduce the heat under the skillet to low, then pour the eggs mixture over the zucchini. Cook for 10 minutes, gently shaking the pan now and again, or using a spatula around the edges to make sure the frittata is not sticking.
The bottom of the frittata should be golden and firm, but the center should still have give. Remove the skillet from the heat.
Put a plate over the pan and quickly invert so the frittata slips out upside down. Carefully slide the frittata back into the pan (the top of the fritatta now should be on the bottom) and cook another 5 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 2 servings.
-- From Clarissa Hyman's "Cucina Siciliana," Interlink Publishing Group, 2002
BIRD-HEAD BUTTERMILK BISCUITS
2 1/4 cups sifted cake flour (or 2 cups sifted bleached all-purpose flour), plus more for your work surface and hands
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and cut into several pieces
2 tablespoons lard or vegetable shortening, cold and cut into several pieces
3/4 cup whole or lowfat buttermilk, cold
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
In a medium bowl, use a fork to mix the flour, baking powder, sugar and salt. Transfer the mixture to a food processor fitted with the chopping blade. Add the butter and lard and pulse the mixture in 2-second increments until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs with a few pea-sized pieces, about five pulses.
Transfer the mixture back to the bowl, pour the buttermilk over it and mix with the fork until the dough just comes together, about a minute. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface. Knead with floured fingers once or twice.
Fold the dough into a 6-by-10-inch rectangle about 1 inch thick. Fold the rightmost third of the rectangle over the center third, then fold the left third on top. Turn the dough a quarter turn, pat it into a 6-by-10-inch rectangle, and fold it upon itself in thirds again. Repeat one more time, then once again pat the dough into a 6-by-10-inch rectangle about 1 inch thick.
Using a floured 2-inch biscuit cutter, cut the biscuits from the dough and place them about 1 1/2 inches apart on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake 15 to 20 minutes, or until the tops just begin to brown. Serve the biscuits warm. Makes about 16 biscuits.
-- From Matt Lee and Ted Lee's "The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook," W.W. Norton, 2006, $35
NO-COOK CHRISTMAS BRUNCH
Sometimes it's too much of an effort even to approach the stove Christmas morning. So it's good to have a plan that requires little more than a knife and a chopping board. The citrus salad can be made the night before. The yogurt and granola parfait can be assembled up to 2 hours before and kept chilled without resulting in a soggy granola.
The original Gourmet magazine recipe for the crispbread with smoked salmon includes directions for making your own crispbread crackers, but there's no need to bother with baking; packaged crackers do just as well.
CITRUS SALAD
4 navel oranges
2 grapefruits
2 tangelos or 3 mandarins
Sugar, to taste
2 tablespoons orange liqueur (optional)
Chopped mint (optional)
Grate 3 tablespoons zest from the oranges. Place the zest in a medium bowl. Set aside.
Section the oranges, or peel and cut into bite-sized pieces. Add the oranges and their juices to the bowl with the zest. Section or peel and cut up the grapefruits and tangelos or mandarins, removing any seeds. Combine with the oranges. Gently stir in the sugar and liqueur, if using, to taste. Cover and refrigerate until chilled. If desired, sprinkle with mint. Makes 6 servings.
-- From "Joy of Cooking: 75th Anniversary Edition," Simon and Schuster, 2006, $30
CRISPBREAD WITH PEPPER-DILL CREME FRAICHE AND SMOKED SALMON
1/2 cup creme fraiche
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, plus additional sprigs
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 freshly ground black pepper
24 flatbread or crispbread crackers
1/4 pound sliced smoked salmon, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
In a small bowl, stir together creme fraiche, 2 tablespoons dill, salt and pepper. Spoon 1/2 teaspoon of the creme fraiche mixture onto each cracker. Top each cracker with 1 piece of salmon and a sprinkle of orange zest. If desired, add additional dill sprigs as garnish. Makes 24 crackers.
-- From Gourmet magazine's "The Gourmet Cookbook," Houghton Mifflin, 2004
YOGURT AND GRANOLA PARFAITS
1 quart raspberry yogurt
4 cups granola
1 pint fresh strawberries (hulled and sliced), raspberries or blueberries
In four tall parfait glasses, alternate layers of yogurt and granola, for a total of about four or five layers, starting with yogurt. Top the parfaits with berries and serve with long spoons. Makes 4 servings.
Ellie
By: T. SUSAN CHANG - For The Associated Press
Tradition is what you make of it. Some people celebrate Christmas with roast goose and red cabbage. Others stand by their ham. Some even go so far as to roast a turkey, as if they hadn't had enough just four weeks earlier.
But for those who don't mind their traditions a bit more relaxed, there's the Christmas brunch -- a sociable start to the ritual of giving and receiving, and one which leaves you with more time to share the tidings of the season with loved ones.
The secret to a really good brunch is to recognize that there are two competing visions: the sweet and the savory.
Sweet brunch fare typically includes fruit salads, pastries, waffles, pancakes, preserves and syrup; maybe a mimosa. Savory versions (perhaps favored by those who indulged more than intended the previous evening) include every incarnation of the egg, soups, smoked meats and fish, cheeses and crackers. And an optional Bloody Mary.
Coffee, of course, helps wash down either approach.
I've found it best to offer a mix of savory and sweet. If that sounds like too much trouble, remember: Those who don't want to cook, shop. When you go to the market for your last grocery run before Christmas, pick up a packet of smoked salmon, some extra crackers and a sack of oranges. Fortune favors those prepared.
Making sure that at least one of your dishes is finger food keeps things friendly. That way those who prefer to linger by the table -- say, while the ribbon and wrapping paper are flying -- can happily nibble and sip.
It's worth remembering that brunch also is a state of mind: a time to graze and chat, to do things at a leisurely pace and enjoy the sense that there's nowhere else you have to be.
In that spirit, you might as well take it easy when planning brunch at home. But that doesn't mean you can't eat well.
Any one of several strategies will work. Make most of the meal ahead of time and let the oven do all the work. Or choose a few simple recipes easily assembled that morning. And tossing together a no-cook brunch is always an appealing option.
What Christmas brunch should not be is a harried dash to the stove, juggling eggs like a short-order cook, or a tedious vigil over the toaster while browning two mind-numbing slices at a time.
It should not involve frenzied speculation as to where each of seven pieces of silverware should go in a place setting. Nor should it entail folding starched napkins into orchid and daffodil shapes.
And whoever ends up having to hand-wash the good china, if you are so foolish as to use it, is likely to dispel the Christmas spirit faster than you can say "Peace on Earth."
Keep it casual, keep it friendly, have something for everybody and buy what you don't want to cook. And afterward, once you've nabbed the last piece of lox and tried on your new shearling-lined slippers, you can let somebody else cook Christmas dinner.
Recipes for three Christmas brunches
MAKE-AHEAD CHRISTMAS BRUNCH
If you have the time to do some preparation on Christmas Eve, a make-ahead brunch is an easy and impressive way to feed a crowd. Everything just comes down to reheating or preheating (the oven). A last-minute green salad would round out this meal.
The rolls can be prepared a day or two ahead and kept, covered, in the back of the refrigerator until you're ready to bake. The soup can be prepared entirely the day before and reheated Christmas morning; the flavors will only deepen.
CRANBERRY NUT BREAKFAST ROLLS
1/2 cup orange juice, strained
1/3 cup sweetened dried cranberries
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted and cooled, plus 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick), softened
1 cup buttermilk
2 large eggs
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
3 cups bread flour
1/3 cup coarsely chopped roasted pecans or walnuts
Vegetable oil or nonstick vegetable oil spray
Zest of 1 orange, removed in strips and finely diced
1/2 cup heavy cream (optional)
For the icing:
2 cups powdered sugar
1/4 teaspoon pure orange extract
For the rolls, in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, bring 1/4 cup orange juice to a boil. Place the cranberries in a bowl. Once the orange juice has boiled, pour it over the cranberries and let stand 10 minutes. Strain the berries, reserving the liquid. Set both aside.
In the microwave or on the stove, combine the melted butter and buttermilk and gently heat until warm (no more than 115 degrees). Transfer to a large mixing bowl. Add the eggs, 1/4 cup sugar, salt and yeast. Mix well.
Add the flour and knead until the dough is cohesive. Knead the strained cranberries and nuts into the dough. Continue to knead until the dough is smooth and elastic.
Use the vegetable oil or cooking spray to lightly coat another large mixing bowl. Shape the dough into a ball and place in the bowl, turning to coat with the oil. Cover with a damp cloth and let rise until doubled, about 1 hour.
Meanwhile, oil or spray two 9-inch cake pans and set aside.
Once the dough has risen, divide it in half. Roll one half into a 12-by-8-inch rectangle. Spread 3 tablespoons of the softened butter over the dough. Sprinkle with half of the orange zest and 1/4 cup of the sugar. Roll up the dough from the long side. Dampen the edge of the dough with water and press to seal the seam. Cut into 12 even slices.
Place the rolls, cut-side down, into one of the prepared cake pans. The edges of the rounds should touch. Repeat this process with the remaining dough. Cover the pans with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. The rolls can be refrigerated up to four days.
When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator and place in a warm place to rise until the rolls have doubled, about 30 minutes. For a creamier roll, drizzle 1/4 cup heavy cream over each pan of rolls. Bake for 20 minutes, or until golden brown.
While the rolls are baking, prepare the icing. In a small bowl, combine the powdered sugar, orange extract and orange juice. Whisk until smooth. To ice the rolls, place the rolls on a cooling rack over a tray or foil to catch any drips. Use a brush or spoon to spread a thin coat of icing over the tops of the rolls. Transfer the rolls to a plate and serve warm. Makes 24 rolls.
-- From Carol Gordon's "Sleep on It," Hyperion, 2006, $13.95)
BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND ROASTED APPLE SOUP
1 large (4 to 5 pounds) butternut squash
3 tart apples (such as Granny Smith), peeled, cored and quartered
1/2 pound shallots
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
1 3/4 cups apple cider
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup heavy cream
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil.
Cut the squash in half down its length and scoop out and discard the seeds. Place the halves cut side down on the baking sheet and roast until very tender, about 1 1/2 hours. When done, the neck of the squash will feel soft to the touch, the skin will be wrinkled and browned in spots, and the juices will have caramelized on the pan. Leave the squash on the pan until it is cool enough to handle.
Meanwhile, combine the apples and shallots in a roasting pan. Season with salt and pepper and the thyme. Pour in 3/4 cup cider, then dot with the butter. Cover the pan with foil and roast for 1 hour.
Remove the foil from the pan and roast the apples and shallots another 30 to 45 minutes. When done, the shallots should be very tender and most of the juices should be absorbed. Let cool for several minutes.
Use a food processor to puree the shallot and apple mixture, in batches, until smooth. Transfer to a large stockpot.
Cut the peel off the squash and puree the flesh, in batches if necessary, in the food processor. Add the pureed squash to the stockpot.
Whisk the stock, the remaining cup of cider, the coriander and nutmeg into the vegetable puree. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Add the cream, then return to a simmer. Cook for 1 minute. If desired, serve garnished with croutons. Makes 6 servings.
-- From Roy Finamore's "Tasty," Houghton Mifflin, 2006, $30
WILD MUSHROOM AND GRUYERE TART
For the crust: - 1 1/3 cups flour
1 stick unsalted butter, cold and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup ice-cold water
For the tart filling:
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 shallots, thinly sliced
12 ounces mixed mushrooms (shiitakes and creminis work well), sliced 1/4-inch thick (about 3 to 4 cups)
Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh thyme, chopped
1/2 cup white wine
2/3 cup coarsely grated Gruyere cheese
3 egg yolks
1 cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
To make the crust, in a food processor combine the flour, butter and salt and pulse briefly, or until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. The largest chunks in the mixture should be the size of small peas.
With the food processor pulsing, drizzle in the water. Stop adding water as soon as the dough comes together. Remove the dough and carefully form into a disk. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate while preparing the mushrooms, about 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the shallots and saute until just translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the mushrooms and thyme and saute until the mushrooms are wilted and have lost their moisture, 15 to 20 minutes.
When the mushrooms are nearly dry, deglaze the pan by adding the wine and scraping the skillet with a wooden spoon.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator and quickly roll out. Set the dough into a 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom, carefully pressing it into the edge and up the sides.
Line the dough with foil or waxed paper. Fill the tart shell with dried beans or pie weights, then bake for 10 minutes. Remove the weights and foil and bake another 5 minutes, or until pale gold.
Scatter half of the cheese over the bottom of the tart shell. Spoon the mushroom mixture evenly over the cheese. At this stage, the tart can be refrigerated overnight.
When ready to bake, preheat oven to 375 degrees.
In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and cream, then drizzle over the mushroom mixture. Scatter the remaining cheese over that. Bake for 35 minutes, or until just puffed and golden brown. Serve hot. Makes one 9-inch tart.
QUICK AND EASY CHRISTMAS BRUNCH
Many perfectly satisfying brunches are just variations on eggs and toast. This dressed-up version would be even better with country ham to serve with the biscuits. Warm up a big bowl of apple sauce spiced with cinnamon sticks and cloves to provide a sweet side.
This full-flavored frittata has only one tricky spot -- flipping it to cook the other side. A lightweight nonstick pan makes a big difference. This recipe also is easily doubled (be sure to use a larger skillet).
If you happen to have access to good-quality lard, it gives these biscuits incomparable texture and flavor. They also are good made with butter or shortening.
ZUCCHINI AND MINT FRITTATA
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 yellow onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled
1 large zucchini, thinly sliced
Coarse salt
4 eggs
Peperoncino or freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint
1 tablespoon caciocavallo or pecorino cheese, grated
Heat the oil in an 8-inch skillet, nonstick skillet over a medium heat. Saute the onion and garlic clove (whole) until the onion softens, but does not brown, about 10 minutes. The garlic adds a subtle flavor.
Add the zucchini and sprinkle light with salt. Saute 10 minutes, or until the zucchini slices have softened but still retain their shape. The seeds should appear swollen and almost translucent.
In a small bowl, beat the eggs, then whisk in a bit of salt, the peperoncino or black pepper, mint and cheese.
Reduce the heat under the skillet to low, then pour the eggs mixture over the zucchini. Cook for 10 minutes, gently shaking the pan now and again, or using a spatula around the edges to make sure the frittata is not sticking.
The bottom of the frittata should be golden and firm, but the center should still have give. Remove the skillet from the heat.
Put a plate over the pan and quickly invert so the frittata slips out upside down. Carefully slide the frittata back into the pan (the top of the fritatta now should be on the bottom) and cook another 5 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 2 servings.
-- From Clarissa Hyman's "Cucina Siciliana," Interlink Publishing Group, 2002
BIRD-HEAD BUTTERMILK BISCUITS
2 1/4 cups sifted cake flour (or 2 cups sifted bleached all-purpose flour), plus more for your work surface and hands
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and cut into several pieces
2 tablespoons lard or vegetable shortening, cold and cut into several pieces
3/4 cup whole or lowfat buttermilk, cold
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
In a medium bowl, use a fork to mix the flour, baking powder, sugar and salt. Transfer the mixture to a food processor fitted with the chopping blade. Add the butter and lard and pulse the mixture in 2-second increments until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs with a few pea-sized pieces, about five pulses.
Transfer the mixture back to the bowl, pour the buttermilk over it and mix with the fork until the dough just comes together, about a minute. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface. Knead with floured fingers once or twice.
Fold the dough into a 6-by-10-inch rectangle about 1 inch thick. Fold the rightmost third of the rectangle over the center third, then fold the left third on top. Turn the dough a quarter turn, pat it into a 6-by-10-inch rectangle, and fold it upon itself in thirds again. Repeat one more time, then once again pat the dough into a 6-by-10-inch rectangle about 1 inch thick.
Using a floured 2-inch biscuit cutter, cut the biscuits from the dough and place them about 1 1/2 inches apart on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake 15 to 20 minutes, or until the tops just begin to brown. Serve the biscuits warm. Makes about 16 biscuits.
-- From Matt Lee and Ted Lee's "The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook," W.W. Norton, 2006, $35
NO-COOK CHRISTMAS BRUNCH
Sometimes it's too much of an effort even to approach the stove Christmas morning. So it's good to have a plan that requires little more than a knife and a chopping board. The citrus salad can be made the night before. The yogurt and granola parfait can be assembled up to 2 hours before and kept chilled without resulting in a soggy granola.
The original Gourmet magazine recipe for the crispbread with smoked salmon includes directions for making your own crispbread crackers, but there's no need to bother with baking; packaged crackers do just as well.
CITRUS SALAD
4 navel oranges
2 grapefruits
2 tangelos or 3 mandarins
Sugar, to taste
2 tablespoons orange liqueur (optional)
Chopped mint (optional)
Grate 3 tablespoons zest from the oranges. Place the zest in a medium bowl. Set aside.
Section the oranges, or peel and cut into bite-sized pieces. Add the oranges and their juices to the bowl with the zest. Section or peel and cut up the grapefruits and tangelos or mandarins, removing any seeds. Combine with the oranges. Gently stir in the sugar and liqueur, if using, to taste. Cover and refrigerate until chilled. If desired, sprinkle with mint. Makes 6 servings.
-- From "Joy of Cooking: 75th Anniversary Edition," Simon and Schuster, 2006, $30
CRISPBREAD WITH PEPPER-DILL CREME FRAICHE AND SMOKED SALMON
1/2 cup creme fraiche
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, plus additional sprigs
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 freshly ground black pepper
24 flatbread or crispbread crackers
1/4 pound sliced smoked salmon, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
In a small bowl, stir together creme fraiche, 2 tablespoons dill, salt and pepper. Spoon 1/2 teaspoon of the creme fraiche mixture onto each cracker. Top each cracker with 1 piece of salmon and a sprinkle of orange zest. If desired, add additional dill sprigs as garnish. Makes 24 crackers.
-- From Gourmet magazine's "The Gourmet Cookbook," Houghton Mifflin, 2004
YOGURT AND GRANOLA PARFAITS
1 quart raspberry yogurt
4 cups granola
1 pint fresh strawberries (hulled and sliced), raspberries or blueberries
In four tall parfait glasses, alternate layers of yogurt and granola, for a total of about four or five layers, starting with yogurt. Top the parfaits with berries and serve with long spoons. Makes 4 servings.
Ellie