M-14/M1A know it all's.....

[Twitchell]

I have a couple of questions for Snipers, competition shooters, and anyone else that was issued the M-14. I would much rather get the advice of experienced Marines that were taught by the Corps, than a bunch of know it all civilians on the internet. It is mostly about maintainance, but any other tips would be appreciated.

The main one (oil, or grease)? I am guessing grease, but how much, where, and how often? What brands are best?

Second is, do you tear down the gas system and clean it? Especially if it is brand new? If when the bolt is open and can hear the gas piston sliding back and forth slowly, is it good to go?:confused:

Do you use a guide for the cleaning rod while cleaning the barrel? As to not damage the muzzle.

And finally, do you always tear it completely down, (including taking the barrel receiver group, and trigger assembly out of the stock) for a NON-glass bedded synthetic stock? I don't want to loosen things up to much, or cause excess wear on my "freinds" M1a Loaded.:scared:

Oh also do you recommend a certain way to break in the barrel? I.E. how many rounds and cleaning cycles.

Thanks allot in advance.... Twitch

[Twitchell]

Oh yea, what all magazines are good? Obviously Springfield. But what other brands? Thanks....

[sparkie]

Don't remember much, 'sept for lithium grease on the bolt guides, and thin oil on the gas piston. I'm sure a gun geek will straighten me out.

[thewookie]

The main one (oil, or grease)? I am guessing grease, but how much, where, and how often? What brands are best? You should be using gun grease on all the moving parts of the bolt, except for the bolt face, nothing on that. (Unless you're in super cold climates then you might want to use more CLP then anything else.) The face of the bolt should be clean and free of debris, but it gets no oil/grease. Shooters Choice, Hoppes #9, Breakfree are good brands to use. Keep the grease away from the stock, especially if its glass bedded or synthetic. Use it mostly on the outside surface of the bolt. Be careful how much oil you use, if any. Oil in the bore and chamber of a clean weapon will cause the pressure to vary, causing first round accuracy to be lost.

Second is, do you tear down the gas system and clean it? Especially if it is brand new? If when the bolt is open and can hear the gas piston sliding back and forth slowly, is it good to go?:confused: As long as the gas piston is moving, and even if it's kinda sluggish, I wouldn't mess with it. Big Jim or another armorer might tell you differently, but as a former precision/competitive shooter, having spent many hours behind a M-14, I would tell you to mess with the gas system as little as possible. Until you know what you're doing, and even then, that gas system is finicky at times. Some guys might swear it doesn't matter, but in my experience if you're looking for key-hole groups then don't mess with it. Some M-14's can be very finicky about the gas system. Depends how old the gun is, and how many armorers put there grubby hands on it, especially ones that don't know what they're doing. Cleaning the gas system at minimum is best, in my opinion. Some guys I know would clean it everyday, and if that is what you do, and that works for you, then do it but do it consistently.

Do you use a guide for the cleaning rod while cleaning the barrel? As to not damage the muzzle. No sh*t always use a bore guide and never pull the swab back down through the barrel after it's gone up. Always take it off at the top, pull the dirty cloth off, put on a new one and repeat the process until the patch comes clean. In other words - You send the cleaning rod up through the bore guide from the chamber end to the bore, not vice versa. Don't treat the gun like the M-16 where you go in and out with the cleaning rod and patch, that is wrong. If you go from the bore end first, you run a chance of damaging the crown.

And finally, do you always tear it completely down, (including taking the barrel receiver group, and trigger assembly out of the stock) for a NON-glass bedded synthetic stock? I don't want to loosen things up to much, or cause excess wear on my "friends" M1a Loaded.:scared: You can take the gun down to the 3 main groups, but don't take it down any further then that unless you are a school trained armorer or you know the gun like the back of your hand like I do.

Oh also do you recommend a certain way to break in the barrel? I.E. how many rounds and cleaning cycles. It all depends, barrel break-in varies on many factors, round fired, temperature, humidity, water/sand exposure. M-14's are not wimpy guns, they can take a beating, but they do need to be wiped down everyday you fire it. That goes for any and all weapons/guns.

Never scrub the chamber of a M-14 in and out, like you do a M-16, this can raise burrs in the chamber and result in malfunctions due to spent brass catching in the chamber.

Remember, a dirty gun is an unreliable weapon, a shooter with an unreliable weapon is a liability.

For every one day you fire you should clean the barrel for three days after. Graphite and carbon deposits will sweat from the pores of the metal for three day, so, after firing you should clean it for three straight days after, not just the day you fire.


My comments are in green, good luck, don't screw it up.

[montana]

i used luberplate that was issued...worked great...i kept it all clean sept the piston...only cleand it about every 5-6th cleaning...i used to fire 20 round bursts with all tracers...sometimes up to 6 mags in a row...when in ambushes....my M14 would sizzle and pop and smoke after a deasent ambush...couldnt even touch the hand gaurd on top of the barrol...(them ambushing...us giveing it back to them)...i still could make some nice groupes with it at end of tour...it was well used when i got it...just that line to let you know they dont kneed to be babyed...keep er clean and use it

[Twitchell]

Sorry it took so long to reply to your post's. It has been pretty busy.

If you don't mind wookie, I had a few more questions. Some of them may sound pretty stupid, but hey, it's smarter than just assuming right?


You should be using gun grease on all the moving parts of the bolt, except for the bolt face, nothing on that. (Unless you're in super cold climates then you might want to use more CLP then anything else.) The face of the bolt should be clean and free of debris, but it gets no oil/grease. Shooters Choice, Hoppes #9, Breakfree are good brands to use. Keep the grease away from the stock, especially if its glass bedded or synthetic. Use it mostly on the outside surface of the bolt. Be careful how much oil you use, if any. Oil in the bore and chamber of a clean weapon will cause the pressure to vary, causing first round accuracy to be lost.

1. Should I use CLP to clean the barrel, chamber, ect. then? Or no? If not, what kind of solvent?

2. I have heared you should put a little oil on the triger/hammer springs. Would CLP work for that.


No sh*t always use a bore guide and never pull the swab back down through the barrel after it's gone up. Always take it off at the top, pull the dirty cloth off, put on a new one and repeat the process until the patch comes clean. In other words - You send the cleaning rod up through the bore guide from the chamber end to the bore, not vice versa. Don't treat the gun like the M-16 where you go in and out with the cleaning rod and patch, that is wrong. If you go from the bore end first, you run a chance of damaging the crown.


3. What kind of cleaning rod do you use? Does it need to bend? I haven't even taken it apart yet. I just wasn't even sure if it is a straight shot with the cleaning rod down the barrel from the "chamber end". I told you some of these questions would sound stupid.

4. Should I use a bore brush, or just cloth's?

5. Should I use a chamber brush? Or should I just use a tooth brush?


You can take the gun down to the 3 main groups, but don't take it down any further then that unless you are a school trained armorer or you know the gun like the back of your hand like I do.


6. This also would depend on the cleaning rod question I guess. Is it good to take it down to 3 parts every time you clean it? I have heard you only should about every 500-1000 rounds, because it causes allot of wear and tear on the weapon. Or is that just if it is glass bedded? Which in this case, it's not. It's non glass bedded synthetic.

7. And lastly, "I THINK", what kind of grease do you suggest? I have heard XF7,(I think that is what it's called), is the best. But I have also been told Lubraplate, USGI stuff, and so on.

Oh hell, one more question. My shooting buddy has a DPMS 308. He was wondering if allot of this same stuff would apply to that rifle as well. Espeacially if he should use grease on it.
Thanks allot for all your help Sgt. You don't need to rush to answer this, just when ever is fine. But I really appreciate it. Semper Fi!

[Twitchell]

Sparkie, and montana. Thanks allot for your replys as well.

[Twitchell]

Just one last shot......
Does anyone else have any other suggestions. Thanks in advance! Twitch

[jinelson]

The service rifle that I was issued in recruit training was the M141A1 and I qual fired with it there. I was issued another at Infantry Training Bn and also Staging Bn. When I arrived in Vietnam I was issued an M16A1 which I never had any training with or for other than a army comic book that was issued with the rifle. I grew more confused when I was also issued a bayonet for it. Motor Transport drivers at least in my units were allowed to use any other weapons they could procure when leaving the wire. I preferred to use the M79 grenade launcher as it offered many options HE, smoke, lumination and my favorite the bee hive round. I also had an M1 carbine modified to a pistol grip which you can view on page 4 of my photo gallery here.

To answer your question I would suggest that you get your hands on Army Technical manual TM 9-1005-223-20 as this is what we were trained by. There is currently one available on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/USGI--7.62-308-M1A-Military-Rifle-Technical-Manual-1972_W0QQitemZ360128958991QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ200 90203?IMSfp=TL090203159003r26096

I hope this helps to steer you in the best direction for any questions you have about this fine weapon.

Semper Fi

Jim


http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x157/usmc3537/000_0003.jpg

[Twitchell]

Thanks Jim. Believe it or not it actually came with one of those manuals. I was inquiring more towards the match grade stuff, were the manual was more geared toward the standard M14. I just didn't want to mess anything up.
I think I've pretty much got it figured out for the most part. I was just taking any suggestions from whom ever. Just so I did'nt mess something up, and then have someone say (OH BY THE WAY), LOL. Ya know what I mean?

Thanks again Jim. SF

[Twitchell]

Hey, by the way. How are ya feeling Jim?

[jinelson]

Im getting a little stronger and better each day. Thanks for asking.

Semper Fi

Jim

[Twitchell]

Outstanding.... Glad to hear it!

[wsky9er]

I have the springfield armory loaded model M1A, got it back in 1999 and the army manual came with it and I more or less went along with it. Springfield has since came out with an M1A owners manual which is more suited for their match grade models. I ordered one from them and use it as a guide

[Twitchell]

I have the springfield armory loaded model M1A, got it back in 1999 and the army manual came with it and I more or less went along with it. Springfield has since came out with an M1A owners manual which is more suited for their match grade models. I ordered one from them and use it as a guide


Yea, I got one of those to. I was just hopeing for some more advice from some Marines, especially Snipers, DM's, or Compatition shooters.

Basically stuff like the bore brush. When I bought my Colt AR15 A3 Tactical, the manual said to use the bore brush that came with it. But when I was Active, and in boot, I can't remember ever even being taught to use, or even seeing a bore brush for the M16. Let alone using one. Which could possibly screw stuff up. I just figure with the particular rifle, and the particular "do's and dont's of the Marines, are probably the best way. I havn't had any problems with my Colt, and it is because of the Marines. Since they have put them through the guantlet so to speek.
As far as the booklets go. I look at it like drivers ed. I have learned allot of high performance driveing, and allot of it contradicts what they teach you in basic drivers ed. Ya know what I mean?

But I do appreciate it Cpl. Oorah......